“Clothes and manners do not make the man; but when he is made, they greatly improve his appearance.”
—Arthur Ashe, Professional Tennis Player
When it comes to things like fashion, I am part of the high percentage that knows nothing about it, I kid you not absolutely nothing. Discerning what stylist, which designer made what, the difference between Haute Couture and regular couture is like asking me to teach like Einstein, it is completely lost on me. In fact it’s been so bad that I have for the last twenty plus years I have only worn either off the rack items from places like Keech Hospice Care Luton (because I happen to like my money to help people and cheap fashion works comfortably for me) Primark (in Nigerian slang in the bid to sound bougie…Primany), Gap, New look, Matalan, River Island (only reason I even know these names is because of the large store sign in front or someone actually telling me what brand I am being gifted) and okirika (thrift items), in fact recently two amazing designers where one happens to be a friend (more like brother- 1407 Ugochukwu Onukwubiri) and a cousin (Lemillian-Ojum Ameh) have done their very best to switch up my looks from shorts and shirt or jeans and tshirt to being bodied, snatched and very alluring. As uncomfortable as it might be for me, I must admit the ohs and the ahs that came with the change were very flattering.
Now as someone who works or has worked and will continue to work in an image projection dominated society (Public Relations and Public Speaking) it sounds ridiculous that I know nothing about high or low fashion (more of a book, anime and documentary type of woman; I prefer to immerse myself in knowledge), yet my vast knowledge has always given me the privileged to work with, chat with or sit in/on fashion inclined situations and this year happened to be Men’s Fashion Week Nigeria (someday I will be touring the world talking about other international runways…AMEN!).
Do not laugh but I was pleasantly surprised to know that Men’s Fashion Week Nigeria (MFWN) actually exists because from tvs to runways there hasn’t been a clear cut distinction in whose week it is (or maybe I was not paying attention). It has always been fashion week or weeks and more women sexualised on the runways with more showcasing than the limited men’s look. This is not to say that men do not have a space but what I am saying is that they should have their own space, spaces or weeks, or months solely dedicated to them. Thanks to the current evolving landscape of men’s fashion in Nigeria and the world at large; it has now become a more prominent vivid tapestry slowly being woven with threads of tradition, modernity, and creativity ( so times a bit too much creativity if you understand). As fashion weeks (let us focus on Nigeria/Africa) continue to gain much needed momentum, they are presenting a unique platform to showcase not just new designs, but also the rich cultural heritage and diverse identities that exist within the Nigerian/African society. Where inclusion and diversity in men’s fashion week are vital, not only for the industry’s growth but also for reflecting the eclectic nature of Nigerian/African culture.
If you are new to reading any article I have written…welcome to that article section that gives you alternative insights and perspectives into daily societal cases and issues, while teaching you how to either appreciate scenarios or possibly prevent them. To the old, having you here is definitely always a plus. So let us dive right into it shall we? Let us dive into the depths of fabrics, creativity, gender fluidity and stunning representations of culture and heritage- MUSCLES, POSE, STRUT, INCLUSION AND DIVERSITY- MEN’S FASHION WEEK 24. This will definitely be served hot or cold, let your mind decide! Remember deep breaths and let’s jump shall we?
The Challenge of Peacocking in Nigerian Fashion
“Style is the perfection of a point of view.” —Richard Eberhart, Poet
Let’s do a quick history check on Men’s Fashion Week Nigeria before we dive into the antics and challenge of Peacocking. Now attending a show filled with decadent male bodies and stunning pieces is nice and all but for a proud nerd like myself whose work and life is usually research based, I found it imperative to track down the person who was bold enough to cater to such a beautiful yet overwhelming feat (if you have ever worked back stage for any event or any production you will understand it takes more than an army to smoothly run things). Santiago Roberts is his name and talking to him gave me insights to men’s spaces I never thought possible, from issues of gender fluidity in fashion, dispelling the notion that every trimmed and decked out young man is gay, or a man is allowed to flaunt vibrant colours just like anyone else because as African or Nigerian we have always been loud, proud and very visual about our outfits and accessories so why shouldn’t today’s man embody what his elders and ancestors already did. The only difference is that social media exists and perspectives on creativity are now much more important due to globalisation. Alongside Santiago I was happily introduced to the Maestro of production Tonye Hart and I must say if you could not keep up with his pace then breathless is all you would have been, from coordinating over forty designers, close to forty models, make up artists, photographers, videographers, press, sponsors, guests, caterers and more while barely breaking a sweat was truly impressive. The one thing I noticed was how alert to his surroundings he was even while doing me the honours of guiding me through the ins and outs of what it takes to produce such a massively overwhelming event for three days straight with only coffee and grit flowing through his veins.
Yes, let’s now discuss MFWN and peacocking; Nigeria has always been renowned for its rich cultural heritage, and that richness is mirrored in its fashion. Though men have always been kept in a certain box of being shamed, laughed at or mocked (some even terribly harassed or arrested by the police simply for braids, dreads or colourful outfits thanks to an untrained mentality of thinking criminals only dress flashy- this we desperately need to change) when they bedazzle outfits or wear pieces that narrow minds refuse to perceive as innovative, creative as well as individualistic. Africans/Nigerians for some reason over the years have decided to cater to an expected norm of dressing for men or boys, by keeping it simple, plain and not attractive. Yet as the fashion scene evolves, while reflecting on both global trends with deep-seated cultural values, many are breaking the chains of conventional looks to eye-catching unconventional pieces that scream I AM HERE TO STAY. By elevating men’s fashion beyond boring silhouettes, Nigeria/ Africa can place itself on the global fashion map, influencing international trends as well as inspiring a new generation of designers, fashion enthusiasts and brand products that seek to cater to more creative minds. .
“For the designers and myself, curating more men-inspired fashion and dedicated spaces is not just about visual aesthetics; for us it is about grooming a robust fashion industry that can stimulate the local economy, while being a safe space or outlet for expression”,Santiago Roberts stated during our unfiltered chat. Events like MFWN24 draw attention from investors, ground local brands, and create opportunities for collaborations that can market Nigerians/Africans fashion on a broader scale. This is particularly important in a time when the youth demand not only a sense of identity through fashion but also sustainable, fun, creative and outgoing networking type job opportunities within the creative sector.
Unfortunately despite the many exciting fashion possibilities especially for men, many Nigerians remain hesitant to embrace flamboyance and “peacocking” — a term that describes excessive display in clothing. Before harshly judging society, there are arguably understandable factors that have contributed to this phenomenon. Firstly, cultural conservatism plays a significant role. Nigerian communities believe in traditional masculine norms as being deeply ingrained; the idea of masculinity is often associated with being brash or burly in attitude while being restrictive and subtle . The fear of being judged or ridiculed for stepping outside these norms often suppress individual expression in favour of conformity, with anyone stepping outside that; being deemed as abnormal or gay. .
Additionally, the socio-economic landscape can often affect fashion choices. Economic constraints can lead many to prioritise practicality over self-expression, resulting in the adoption of simpler, more regular styles that are regarded as more “acceptable.” This insistence on practicality tends to dilute the vibrant self-expression that fashion, especially with men can offer.
The Importance of Infusing Tradition
“Fashion is not necessarily about labels. It’s not about brands. It’s about something else that comes from within you.” —Ralph Lauren
One of the most compelling reasons to embrace diversity in men’s fashion is the opportunity it presents to celebrate and infuse traditional elements. Nigeria is a nation rich in ethnic diversity, with over 250 ethnic groups, each boasting its own unique clothing styles, patterns, and colours. By incorporating traditional fabrics like aso-oke, adire, and batik into contemporary designs, fashion designers can create stunning pieces that honour their heritage while pushing the boundaries of modernity.
This fusion of tradition and innovation not only enhances the clothing but also tells the story of a culture that values its history and diversity. Designers at men’s fashion weeks can explore unconventional combinations that challenge the status quo, inviting audiences to appreciate the artfulness of sartorial expression.
Celebrating Cultural Representation and Changing Perceptions
“Vintage is my vocabulary… like the notes of a musician.” —Alessandro Michele, Gucci designer
Inclusivity during this year’s MFWN was also about representation—ensuring that diverse cultural and creative voices are heard and every aesthetic is showcased. From Nigeria to Ghana, Cote d’Ivoire etc, rich outfits brought to life the creativity fused with heritage like never seen before. By continuously encouraging designers from varied backgrounds to present their work, the industry can embrace different interpretations of masculinity and identity. This integration will foster a vibrant dialogue that enriches the fashion narrative in Nigeria/Africa, inviting men to express their individuality, passions, and cultural backgrounds through their attire.
“So what I believe in is the timelessness of some of these things. The timelessness of an attitude. The timelessness of an old tweed jacket and suede elbow patches.” —Ralph Lauren
To shift the perception around flamboyance and self-expression, there needs to be a combined effort from all stakeholders within as well as outside the fashion industry—from designers and retailers to influencers, consumers, sponsors etc. Initiatives such as style workshops, talks, and panels during fashion weeks can further educate attendees about the importance of diversity and creativity in fashion. Fashion should be a reflection of one’s identity, and by breaking free from conventional expectations; this can ultimately pave the way for a more inclusive understanding of what it means to be fashionable in Nigeria as a man. By fostering an environment where creativity and individuality are celebrated, MFWN24 and beyond can inspire others to embrace a broader outlook of style without fear of judgement.
Conclusion
“Know first who you are, and then adorn yourself accordingly.” —Epictetus
From putting together a brilliant orchestra of fabrics, beautiful bodies and the positioning of gender fludity through mens fashion, the need for inclusion and diversity at men’s fashion week in Nigeria will most assuredly hold immense potential to transform how fashion is perceived, produced, and celebrated. The government must start to encourage a rich blend of traditional influences and contemporary designs to further grow the economy through rising talents and detailed showcases. With this sort of collaboration, I sincerely believe that the industry can promote a culture of self-expression that is inclusive of every identity. So here’s a hearty applause to Santiago Roberts, Tonye Hart, the models, behind the scenes crew and sponsors such as Vento, Istanbul Cafe, Jabi Lake Mall, MAC makeup and Infinix who pushed and pulled their weight to pull off such a great decadent spectacle of beauty, poise, inclusion and diversity for men by men in Nigeria/ Africa. I must say being impressed isn’t even enough to express how I felt being in the auidence. So till next time my dear readers…BYE!
