“It’s a world, someone’s face. When I capture it, I see the future of the world.” – Malick Sidibé
Lights, camera, pose, pose, pose and more posing, late night editing, cans of energy drinks fueled with extra cups of caffeine, little-to-zero food, yet an unending drive to break through industry walls and deliver on deadlines. Over the years, watching young talents get shunned, blacklisted or stalled has been a bit overwhelming; simply because you see, know and understand how much talent is being wasted, and by these young talents I mean emerging photographers. As the fashion industry in Nigeria and across Africa continues to expand, one group often finds themselves in a never ending frustrated cycle – the up-and-coming photographers. These very artistic visual artists, tasked with capturing the essence of the latest trends and styles, showcasing them in hues and tones that often feel unearthly; face a unique set of challenges in breaking into the high-paying circles of the fashion world.
So if you are new to reading any article I have written, welcome to that article section that gives you alternative insights and perspectives into daily societal cases and issues, while teaching you how to either appreciate scenarios or possibly prevent them. To the old, having you here is definitely always a plus. So let us dive right into it shall we? Let us dive into the depths of understanding what new talents within the photography world are plagued with, how to overcome it possibly and how they can be encouraged through…THE EMERGING PHOTOGRAPHER’S STRUGGLE: THE HIGHS AND LOWS OF NIGERIA’S FASHION SCENE.
This will definitely be served hot or cold, let your mind decide! Remember, deep breaths and let’s jump, shall we?
Topsy Turvy
“Photography is by nature a documentary art.” – August Sander
Here is the thing: no industry is easy, none at all, yet we look at certain industries and expect them to be easy to break through, because talent is talent and it should never be disputed. Yet the
Photography world of fashion can be very topsy turvy in dealing with the talent finding his or her feet, landing that life-changing contract and not being broken by internal and external forces.
Recently I was privileged to have a heart-to-heart chat with Famous Issacs, a no-verbal-holds-barred photographer who has been very unrelenting in his values and services. The discussion surrounded my curiosity on securing high target jobs, showcasing on billboards, yet many are starving talents behind the scenes while the world thinks they are swan-diving into pools filled with wads of currencies. Famous Issacs helped me to understand that, unfortunately in Nigeria, a lot more talent tend to focus on the limelight and not the need to feed. Not that it is exactly a bad thing, but itself is a bit shameful where the talents no longer value who they are, why they got
into the art of fashion photography, how to effectively charge fees while still being regarded as talented and uncompromising. The conversation was able to shine a much-needed light on the pertinent struggles many face while trying to make a name for themselves.
Below is a bit of what was discussed. Bear in mind that opinions may vary, yet we can all meet at certain crossroads in our working or personal lives. Let us start with the lows.
The Lows
“Your photography is a record of your living, for anyone who really sees.”– Paul Strand
1. The never ending hustle
It is understandable that one has to work hard to break certain barriers, yet the question begging to be asked is, for how long? The constant drive to break into the fashion photography scene can require relentless networking, cold-pitching on and offline as well as gruelling hours of oftentimes working for little to no pay, just to get your foot in the door. This can break anyone’s spirit, causing them to do what needs to be done even if it means compromising their values and morals for that desperate recognition.
2. Dealing with difficult clients
The naggers, the low payers, the high fliers and the spiralling tantrums. It is unfortunate that some high-profile fashion figures are known to be notoriously and unreasonably demanding, with unrealistic expectations and a god-like attitude. Having to constantly navigate these tricky personalities and their supporters can be excessively draining.
3. Lack of industry support
It is already tough when your family and friends do not support your dreams as accretive just to fall into repeated tidings of mental torture, abuse and gaslighting egos, where most established photographers and brands do not always make it easy for the newbies to shine. During one’s pursuit to gain recognition and access to the best gigs, they face an uphill battle.
4. Mental health challenges
Unrealistic deadlines and demands for god-like perfection can be mentally damaging especially when you are unfortunately underpaid. The continuous pressure to deliver flawless, Instagram-worthy images does eventually take a toll, especially when combined with the stress of an unstable, freelance-based career.
5. Undercutting and exploitation
With so many rising talents who are very desperate to build their portfolios because they need to prove not just to themselves but doubters that they are worthy of being seen and recognised, many emerging photographers end up accepting jobs with meagre pay or even for free, which unfortunately devalues the entire industry.
The Highs
“You fill up the frame with feelings, energy, discovery, and risk, and leave room enough for someone else to get in there.” – Joel Meyerowitz
1. The recognition thrill
No one would ever pass up the positively validating experience of seeing your work gracing the pages of a prestigious magazine, billboard or featured on a runway (now even being posted by a known figure or blog on instagram is a big deal) There’s nothing quite like the exhilarating rush of having your sweat, tears, blood and creative vision validated by industry heavyweights.
2. Networking opportunities galore
Apart from the endless champagne flutes and fancy bite-sized treats, fashion events and shows are a melting pot of influential industry players – no one in their right mind will ever pass up the chance to possibly rub elbows and potentially land that life-changing collaborations.
3. Artistic freedom
The desire and allowance to showcase one’s worth based on a client’s trust means a lot more than money can explain. By shooting for several fashion clients, this often allows for a level of creative expression that may be lacking in more regimented photography jobs.
4. Building a standout portfolio
For every click of your camera, you expand your working range. Each fashion shoot (especially the eccentric ones) is an opportunity to push the boundaries by showcasing your unique style, which ultimately helps to cement your reputation as a rising talent.
5. Wonders and Wandering
Frequent fliers and many adventures away from home. The beauty about fashion shows and editorials is that when you strike lucky with them, they can take you to exciting new locations, both at home and abroad, which expands your horizons and experiences as well as many more eye-catching images that can eventually help you pursue other avenues of photography.
Takeaways
“The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera.”– Dorothea Lange
While we understand that obstacles are inevitable, one must still keep going despite these so- called obstacles. We must understand the importance of supporting and championing Nigeria and Africa’s emerging fashion photographers. This cannot be overstated. These bold and vocal visual storytellers play a crucial role in shaping the global perception of the continent’s style, culture, heritage, adaptations and creativity.
Here are a few valuable takeaways about the life of a photographer and why we are individuals and communities need to appreciate it:
1. Vigil schedules: Photographers often work long, irregular hours to capture the perfect shot. Assignments can go on from sun-up to sun-down; we must appreciate their commitment to their craft.
2. Adaptability: Photo shoots present its own unique set of challenges, whether it’s working with difficult lighting conditions, uncooperative subjects, or tight deadlines. These curators of digital art must be quick-thinking and skilled at finding creative solutions on the fly.
3. Emotional investment: this is beyond mere technical skill. This level of investment can be draining, both physically and mentally. This constantly requires the photographer to emotionally connect with their subject and the story they are trying to convey.
4. Financial madness: The life of a freelance photographer is rarely a steady paycheck. They must constantly fight and grind to land the next gig, negotiate reasonable rates, while managing the unpredictability of their income.
5. Lifelong learning: Technology advances every day, in the bid to shine brighter and be seen as better, photographers must study and align with ever changing and emerging visual trends, while
still maintaining artistic styles that are constantly evolving in the photography world. To be somewhat successful as a photographer, one must be committed to continuous learning,
Conclusion
“I never thought of myself as doing anything other than telling stories – Erich Lessing
So while we definitely should and will applaud the tenacious nature of ever growing talents in
Nigeria and Africa as a whole, we must truly start to understand the multifaceted dynamic reality of an aspiring photographer’;s life within the fashion industry and the public at large in order for us to properly and genuinely foster a greater appreciation for their invaluable contributions to captivating and immortalising images and poses. The world should align by providing necessary support, fair compensation, and a nurturing environment. This is key to empowering Nigeria and Africa’s emerging visual talents to thrive. Furthermore, by investing in their growth, providing mentorship opportunities, and creating more equitable industry structures, we as a whole can empower a new generation of fashion image-projectors to thrive.
After all, the future of Nigerian/African fashion depends on the nurturing as well as captivating eye of the talents of today. Till next time, dear readers, bye.
